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A '''Prusik (or Prussik or Prussic)''' is a [[friction hitch]] used in [[climbing]], | A '''Prusik (or Prussik or Prussic)''' is a [[friction hitch]] used in [[climbing]], canyoneering, [[caving]], [[rope rescue]] and by arborists to grab a rope (sometimes referred to as a ''rope-grab''). The term '''Prusik''' is used both for the knot, for the loops of cord, and for the action ('''to prusik'''). More casually, the term is used for any friction hitch that can grab a rope. | ||
The Prusik hitch is named for its inventor, Austrian mountaineer [[Karl Prusik|Dr. Karl Prusik]]. It was shown in a 1931 Austrian mountaineering manual for rope ascending. It was used on several mountaineering routes of the era to ascend the final summit block of a peak; where a rope could be thrown over the top, one side anchored, and climbers could attain the summit by prusiking up the other side of the rope. | The Prusik hitch is named for its inventor, Austrian mountaineer [[Karl Prusik|Dr. Karl Prusik]]. It was shown in a 1931 Austrian mountaineering manual for rope ascending. It was used on several mountaineering routes of the era to ascend the final summit block of a peak; where a rope could be thrown over the top, one side anchored, and climbers could attain the summit by prusiking up the other side of the rope. | ||
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== Disadvantages of a Prusik hitch == | == Disadvantages of a Prusik hitch == | ||
For climbing a rope, Prusiks are slow and inefficient, as well as ineffective upon wet or frozen ropes. Mechanical devices (such as | For climbing a rope, Prusiks are slow and inefficient, as well as ineffective upon wet or frozen ropes. Mechanical devices (such as jumars) to grab the rope are available that are easier and faster to use, but heavier, more expensive and bulkier. | ||
== Related hitches and equipment == | == Related hitches and equipment == | ||
The Prusik hitch is a specific hitch. Other [[friction hitch]]es can be used to create a rope-grab from small cord (i.e., cord that is smaller than the rope being grabbed) or | The Prusik hitch is a specific hitch. Other [[friction hitch]]es can be used to create a rope-grab from small cord (i.e., cord that is smaller than the rope being grabbed) or webbing slings. The two main alternatives are the [[Bachmann knot]] and the [[Klemheist knot]]. Each has its advantages and disadvantages, mainly in how easy they are to use for climbing a rope. Another variation is the AutoBloc, used by some people as a backup knot while rappelling. | ||
A '''Purcell Prusik''' is a related cord popular among cavers and rope-rescue people. A somewhat longer loop than the normal Prusik is used around the rope, then a second Prusik is used around the cord loop itself to form a foot loop. The foot loop is then easily adjusted in length and position. | A '''Purcell Prusik''' is a related cord popular among cavers and rope-rescue people. A somewhat longer loop than the normal Prusik is used around the rope, then a second Prusik is used around the cord loop itself to form a foot loop. The foot loop is then easily adjusted in length and position. | ||
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In addition to being a useful rope-grab for rope-rescue applications, Prusiks are popular for: | In addition to being a useful rope-grab for rope-rescue applications, Prusiks are popular for: | ||
*'''"Rappel Backup"/"Self-Belay Below The Device":''' A Prusik is placed below the descender and controlled with the brake hand. It acts as an automatic 'dead man's handle' should the climber be incapacitated or require the use of both hands. Careful setup of the | *'''"Rappel Backup"/"Self-Belay Below The Device":''' A Prusik is placed below the descender and controlled with the brake hand. It acts as an automatic 'dead man's handle' should the climber be incapacitated or require the use of both hands. Careful setup of the rappel backup is critical, or it will not work. An AutoBloc knot is most widely used in this application. This technique is used by some rappellers, and not by others. | ||
*'''"Rappel Backup"/"Self-Belay Above The Device":''' A Prusik is placed above the descender and controlled with the hand not being used as the brake hand. This configuration allows for easier and faster transition from rappeling to climbing the rope, but can also result in the Prusik locking tight as the amount of friction required to hold the load at that point is far higher than that experienced by a ''self-belay below the device''. | *'''"Rappel Backup"/"Self-Belay Above The Device":''' A Prusik is placed above the descender and controlled with the hand not being used as the brake hand. This configuration allows for easier and faster transition from rappeling to climbing the rope, but can also result in the Prusik locking tight as the amount of friction required to hold the load at that point is far higher than that experienced by a ''self-belay below the device''. | ||
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== When To carry (climbing) == | == When To carry (climbing) == | ||
Prusik cords are carried by some climbers and not carried by others. The decision over whether or not to carry prusiks is a matter of personal taste and training. Prusiks are unlikely to be needed on short climbs where the climber can be lowered to the ground; conversely they may prove useful where the climber cannot be lowered (either due to the height of the cliff or due to a hazard underneath the climber). Contrary to popular belief, prusiks are not the sole preserve of [[Traditional climbing|Trad Climbers]] - | Prusik cords are carried by some climbers and not carried by others. The decision over whether or not to carry prusiks is a matter of personal taste and training. Prusiks are unlikely to be needed on short climbs where the climber can be lowered to the ground; conversely they may prove useful where the climber cannot be lowered (either due to the height of the cliff or due to a hazard underneath the climber). Contrary to popular belief, prusiks are not the sole preserve of [[Traditional climbing|Trad Climbers]] - Sport Climbers on [[Multi-pitch climbing|multi-pitch]] routes sometimes also carry prusiks. | ||
Prusiks can be improvised from other climbing equipment, such as slings, already carried by the climber. Some climbers carry prusik-specific cords so that they are always easily and quickly available in an emergency. | Prusiks can be improvised from other climbing equipment, such as slings, already carried by the climber. Some climbers carry prusik-specific cords so that they are always easily and quickly available in an emergency. | ||
