Drill bit: Difference between revisions

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=== Center drill ===
=== Center drill ===
[[Image:CenterDrills123456.jpg|right|thumb|200px|Center drills, Numbers 1 through to 6]]
[[Image:CenterDrills123456.jpg|right|thumb|200px|Center drills, Numbers 1 through to 6]]
Center drill bits are used in [[metalworking]] to provide a starting hole for a larger sized drill bit, or a conical indentation in the end of a workpiece to mount a [[lathe center]]. These centers are used when turning or grinding workpieces. A workpiece machined ''between centers'' can be safely removed from one process (perhaps turning in a lathe) and set up in a later process (perhaps a [[grinding]] operation) without losing any concentricity.
Center drill bits are used in metalworking to provide a starting hole for a larger sized drill bit, or a conical indentation in the end of a workpiece to mount a [[lathe center]]. These centers are used when turning or grinding workpieces. A workpiece machined ''between centers'' can be safely removed from one process (perhaps turning in a lathe) and set up in a later process (perhaps a [[grinding]] operation) without losing any concentricity.


Traditional twist drill bits may tend to wander when started on an unprepared surface. Once a bit wanders off-course it is difficult to bring it back on center. A center drill bit provides a good starting point as it is short and therefore has a reduced tendency to wander when drilling is started.
Traditional twist drill bits may tend to wander when started on an unprepared surface. Once a bit wanders off-course it is difficult to bring it back on center. A center drill bit provides a good starting point as it is short and therefore has a reduced tendency to wander when drilling is started.


While the above is common, it is incorrect practice.  Centre drills are meant to create a centre for lathe work only. The correct tool to start a hole is a [[spotting drill]], because the included angle of the spotting drill is the same as a conventional drill bit so the drill bit will then start without chatter. Centre drills wander as easily as anything else in hand-held power drills - for such operations, a [[centre punch]] should be used to spot the planned hole centre prior to drilling a [[pilot hole]]. That said, a centre drill works nearly as well as a spotting drill for most rigidly-clamped drilling operations, especially in softer metals such as aluminium and its [[alloys]].
While the above is common, it is incorrect practice.  Centre drills are meant to create a centre for lathe work only. The correct tool to start a hole is a spotting drill, because the included angle of the spotting drill is the same as a conventional drill bit so the drill bit will then start without chatter. Centre drills wander as easily as anything else in hand-held power drills - for such operations, a [[centre punch]] should be used to spot the planned hole centre prior to drilling a [[pilot hole]]. That said, a centre drill works nearly as well as a spotting drill for most rigidly-clamped drilling operations, especially in softer metals such as aluminium and its [[alloys]].


The small starting tip has a tendency to break, and it is economical and practical to make the drill bit double ended.
The small starting tip has a tendency to break, and it is economical and practical to make the drill bit double ended.
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* A core drill bit is named because its first use was in drilling out the hole left by a '''foundry core''', a cylinder placed in a mould for a casting that leaves an irregular hole in the product. This core drill bit is solid.
* A core drill bit is named because its first use was in drilling out the hole left by a '''foundry core''', a cylinder placed in a mould for a casting that leaves an irregular hole in the product. This core drill bit is solid.


Core drill bits are similar in appearance to [[reamer]]s as they have no cutting point or means of starting a hole. They have 3 or 4 flutes which enhances the finish of the hole and ensures the bit cuts evenly. Core drill bits differ from reamers in the amount of material they are intended to remove. A reamer is only intended to enlarge a hole a slight amount which, depending on the reamers size, may be anything from 0.1 millimeter to perhaps a millimeter. A core drill bit may be used to double the size of a hole.  
Core drill bits are similar in appearance to reamers as they have no cutting point or means of starting a hole. They have 3 or 4 flutes which enhances the finish of the hole and ensures the bit cuts evenly. Core drill bits differ from reamers in the amount of material they are intended to remove. A reamer is only intended to enlarge a hole a slight amount which, depending on the reamers size, may be anything from 0.1 millimeter to perhaps a millimeter. A core drill bit may be used to double the size of a hole.  


Using an ordinary two-flute twist drill to enlarge the hole resulting from a casting core will not produce a clean result, the result will possibly be out of round, off center and generally of poor finish. The two fluted drill also has a tendency to grab on any protuberance (such as [[Casting|casting flash]]) which may occur in the product.
Using an ordinary two-flute twist drill to enlarge the hole resulting from a casting core will not produce a clean result, the result will possibly be out of round, off center and generally of poor finish. The two fluted drill also has a tendency to grab on any protuberance (such as [[Casting|casting flash]]) which may occur in the product.
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[[Image:Screw extractor and T-wrench.jpg|thumb|A screw extractor in a [[tap wrench|T-wrench]]]]
[[Image:Screw extractor and T-wrench.jpg|thumb|A screw extractor in a [[tap wrench|T-wrench]]]]


Another type of left-hand bit is an extraction tool used expressly for removing broken or seized screws, other than by drilling. It has a highly tapered thread structure on it, and is inserted into a drilled hole (of the recommended size) in the damaged screw. If a left hand drill bit is used initially, and the act of drilling the hole does not release the screw, this tool may remove it. In use, the extractor is rotated and the action of the taper and spiral digs into the damaged material causing it to lock tightly and hopefully applies enough pressure to remove the screw. The tool has a tendency to continue winding in while being turned and this may cause the extractor to expand the screw in the hole causing it to bind further, leading to failure of the process. These bits are made of very hard, but brittle, steel, which means they can break off inside the screw if too much force is applied, making the removal much more difficult.  Because of this an alternative extractor has four parallel edges, which tends not to self-tighten.  Alternatively, the hole can be drilled with successively larger bits until it can be [[taps and dies|tapped]].
Another type of left-hand bit is an extraction tool used expressly for removing broken or seized screws, other than by drilling. It has a highly tapered thread structure on it, and is inserted into a drilled hole (of the recommended size) in the damaged screw. If a left hand drill bit is used initially, and the act of drilling the hole does not release the screw, this tool may remove it. In use, the extractor is rotated and the action of the taper and spiral digs into the damaged material causing it to lock tightly and hopefully applies enough pressure to remove the screw. The tool has a tendency to continue winding in while being turned and this may cause the extractor to expand the screw in the hole causing it to bind further, leading to failure of the process. These bits are made of very hard, but brittle, steel, which means they can break off inside the screw if too much force is applied, making the removal much more difficult.  Because of this an alternative extractor has four parallel edges, which tends not to self-tighten.  Alternatively, the hole can be drilled with successively larger bits until it can be tapped.


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Lip and spur drill bits are also effective in soft plastic. Conventional twist drills in a hand drill, where the hole axis is not maintained throughout the operation, have a tendency to smear the edges of the hole through side friction as the drill vibrates.  
Lip and spur drill bits are also effective in soft plastic. Conventional twist drills in a hand drill, where the hole axis is not maintained throughout the operation, have a tendency to smear the edges of the hole through side friction as the drill vibrates.  


In metal, the lip and spur drill is confined to drilling only the thinnest and softest [[sheet metal]]s in a [[drill press]].  The drills are an extremely fast cutting tool geometry: no point angle and a large (considering the flat cutting edge) lip angle causes the edges to take a very aggressive cut with relatively little point pressure.  In metal, this means the drill tends to bind, or given a workpiece of sufficient thinness, the drills have a tendency to punch through and leave the drill's cross-sectional geometry behind.
In metal, the lip and spur drill is confined to drilling only the thinnest and softest [[sheet metal]]s in a drill press.  The drills are an extremely fast cutting tool geometry: no point angle and a large (considering the flat cutting edge) lip angle causes the edges to take a very aggressive cut with relatively little point pressure.  In metal, this means the drill tends to bind, or given a workpiece of sufficient thinness, the drills have a tendency to punch through and leave the drill's cross-sectional geometry behind.


Lip and spur drill bits are ordinarily available in diameters from 3 to 16 mm.
Lip and spur drill bits are ordinarily available in diameters from 3 to 16 mm.
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=== Hinge sinker bit ===
=== Hinge sinker bit ===
[[Image:drill tip 30mm hinge.jpg|right|thumb|200px|30 mm hinge sinker bit]]
[[Image:drill tip 30mm hinge.jpg|right|thumb|200px|30 mm hinge sinker bit]]
The hinge sinker bit is an example of a custom drill design for a specific application. Many European kitchen cabinets are made from [[particle board]] or [[medium-density fibreboard]] (MDF) with a laminated plastic veneer. Those types of [[pressed wood]] boards are not very strong, and the screws of butt [[hinge]]s tend to pull out. A specialist hinge has been developed which uses the walls of a 30 mm diameter hole, bored in the particle board, for support. This is a very common and relatively successful construction method.
The hinge sinker bit is an example of a custom drill design for a specific application. Many European kitchen cabinets are made from [[particle board]] or medium-density fibreboard (MDF) with a laminated plastic veneer. Those types of [[pressed wood]] boards are not very strong, and the screws of butt [[hinge]]s tend to pull out. A specialist hinge has been developed which uses the walls of a 30 mm diameter hole, bored in the particle board, for support. This is a very common and relatively successful construction method.


A Forstner bit could bore the mounting hole for the hinge, but particle board and MDF are very abrasive materials. Softer steel cutting edges soon wear. A [[tungsten carbide]] cutter is needed, and making that in the form of a Forstner bit is impractical. So, this special drill is commonly used. It has cutting edges of tungsten carbide brazed to a steel body. A centre spur keeps the bit from wandering.
A Forstner bit could bore the mounting hole for the hinge, but particle board and MDF are very abrasive materials. Softer steel cutting edges soon wear. A [[tungsten carbide]] cutter is needed, and making that in the form of a Forstner bit is impractical. So, this special drill is commonly used. It has cutting edges of tungsten carbide brazed to a steel body. A centre spur keeps the bit from wandering.
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=== Adjustable wood bit ===
=== Adjustable wood bit ===
[[Image:Adjustable_drill_bit_closeup.jpg|right|thumb|200px|An adjustable wood bit meant for use in a [[Brace (tool)|Brace]]]]
[[Image:Adjustable_drill_bit_closeup.jpg|right|thumb|200px|An adjustable wood bit meant for use in a [[Brace (tool)|Brace]]]]
An adjustable wood bit has a small center pilot bit with an adjustable, sliding cutting edge mounted above it, usually containing a single sharp point at the outside, with a [[set screw]] to lock the cutter in position. When the cutting edge is centered on the bit, the hole drilled will be small, and when the cutting edge is slid outwards, a larger hole is drilled. This allows a single drill bit to drill a wide variety of holes, and can take the place of a large, heavy set of different size bits, as well as providing uncommon bit sizes. A [[ruler]] or [[Vernier scale]] is usually provided to allow precise adjustment of the bit size.
An adjustable wood bit has a small center pilot bit with an adjustable, sliding cutting edge mounted above it, usually containing a single sharp point at the outside, with a [[set screw]] to lock the cutter in position. When the cutting edge is centered on the bit, the hole drilled will be small, and when the cutting edge is slid outwards, a larger hole is drilled. This allows a single drill bit to drill a wide variety of holes, and can take the place of a large, heavy set of different size bits, as well as providing uncommon bit sizes. A ruler or Vernier scale is usually provided to allow precise adjustment of the bit size.


These bits are available both in a version similar to an auger bit or brace bit, designed for low speed, high torque use with a brace or other hand drill (pictured to the right), or as a high speed, low torque bit meant for a power drill. While the shape of the cutting edges is different, and one uses screw threads and the other a twist bit for the pilot, the method of adjusting them remains the same.
These bits are available both in a version similar to an auger bit or brace bit, designed for low speed, high torque use with a brace or other hand drill (pictured to the right), or as a high speed, low torque bit meant for a power drill. While the shape of the cutting edges is different, and one uses screw threads and the other a twist bit for the pilot, the method of adjusting them remains the same.
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=== PCB through-hole drill ===
=== PCB through-hole drill ===
[[Printed circuit board]]s are usually made of [[fiberglass]], which due to being highly abrasive, would quickly ruin a normal drill bit, especially given the many hundreds or thousands of holes on most circuit boards. To solve this problem, solid [[tungsten carbide]] twist bits are almost always used, which drill quickly through the board while providing a moderately long life. Carbide PCB bits are estimated to outlast high speed steel bits by a factor of ten or more.
[[Printed circuit board]]s are usually made of fiberglass, which due to being highly abrasive, would quickly ruin a normal drill bit, especially given the many hundreds or thousands of holes on most circuit boards. To solve this problem, solid [[tungsten carbide]] twist bits are almost always used, which drill quickly through the board while providing a moderately long life. Carbide PCB bits are estimated to outlast high speed steel bits by a factor of ten or more.


In industry, virtually all drilling is done by [[computer numerical control|automated machines]], and the bits are often automatically replaced by the equipment as they wear, as even with their solid carbide construction, they still have a short lifespan. PCB bits typically mount in a [[collet]] rather than a [[Chuck (engineering)|chuck]], and come with standard size shanks, often with pre-installed stops to set them at an exact depth every time when being automatically chucked by the equipment.
In industry, virtually all drilling is done by [[computer numerical control|automated machines]], and the bits are often automatically replaced by the equipment as they wear, as even with their solid carbide construction, they still have a short lifespan. PCB bits typically mount in a [[collet]] rather than a [[Chuck (engineering)|chuck]], and come with standard size shanks, often with pre-installed stops to set them at an exact depth every time when being automatically chucked by the equipment.
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=== Installer bit ===
=== Installer bit ===
Installer bits are a type of twist drill bit for use with a hand-portable power tool. They are also  known as '''bell-hanger''' bits or '''fishing''' bits. The key distinguishing feature of an installer bit is a transverse hole drilled through the web of the bit near the tip. Once the bit has penetrated a wall, a wire can be threaded through this transverse hole, and the bit pulled back through the drilled hole. The wire can then be used to pull a cable or pipe back through the wall. This is especially helpful where the wall has a large cavity, where threading a fishtape could be difficult. Some installer bits have a transverse hole drilled at the shank end as well. Once a hole has been drilled, the wire can be threaded through the shank end, the bit removed from the chuck, and all pulled forward through the drilled hole. Sinclair Smith of [[Brooklyn, New York]] was issued US patent 597750 for this invention on [[25 January]] [[1898]].
Installer bits are a type of twist drill bit for use with a hand-portable power tool. They are also  known as '''bell-hanger''' bits or '''fishing''' bits. The key distinguishing feature of an installer bit is a transverse hole drilled through the web of the bit near the tip. Once the bit has penetrated a wall, a wire can be threaded through this transverse hole, and the bit pulled back through the drilled hole. The wire can then be used to pull a cable or pipe back through the wall. This is especially helpful where the wall has a large cavity, where threading a fishtape could be difficult. Some installer bits have a transverse hole drilled at the shank end as well. Once a hole has been drilled, the wire can be threaded through the shank end, the bit removed from the chuck, and all pulled forward through the drilled hole. Sinclair Smith of Brooklyn, New York was issued US patent 597750 for this invention on [[25 January]] [[1898]].


Installer bits are available in various materials and styles for drilling wood, masonry and metal.
Installer bits are available in various materials and styles for drilling wood, masonry and metal.


A variant of the installer bit has a very long flexible shaft, up to 72 inches long in the US, with a small twist bit at the end. The shaft is made of [[Martensite|spring steel]] steel instead of hardened steel, and can be flexed and bent while drilling. This unique design allows the bit to be curved inside walls, for example to drill through [[stud]]s from a [[light switch]] box without needing to remove any material from the wall. These bits usually come with a set of special tools to aim and flex the bit to reach the desired location and angle, although the problem of seeing where the operator is drilling still remains.
A variant of the installer bit has a very long flexible shaft, up to 72 inches long in the US, with a small twist bit at the end. The shaft is made of spring steel steel instead of hardened steel, and can be flexed and bent while drilling. This unique design allows the bit to be curved inside walls, for example to drill through [[stud]]s from a [[light switch]] box without needing to remove any material from the wall. These bits usually come with a set of special tools to aim and flex the bit to reach the desired location and angle, although the problem of seeing where the operator is drilling still remains.


The flexible variant of the installer bit does not appear to be routinely available in the EU.
The flexible variant of the installer bit does not appear to be routinely available in the EU.
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# a rock bit (also called a [[roller cone bit]]) consists of teeth on wheels which turn as the drill stem is rotated. These teeth apply a crushing pressure to the rock, breaking it up into small pieces.  
# a rock bit (also called a [[roller cone bit]]) consists of teeth on wheels which turn as the drill stem is rotated. These teeth apply a crushing pressure to the rock, breaking it up into small pieces.  


The original [[patent]] for the [[dual cone roller bit|rotary rock bit]] was issued to [[Howard Hughes Sr.]] for his [[dual cone roller bit]] in 1909. It consisted of two interlocking wheels. [[Walter Benona Sharp]] worked very closely with Hughes in developing the Rock Bit. The success of this bit led to the founding of the [[Sharp-Hughes Tool Company]].  
The original patent for the [[dual cone roller bit|rotary rock bit]] was issued to [[Howard Hughes Sr.]] for his [[dual cone roller bit]] in 1909. It consisted of two interlocking wheels. [[Walter Benona Sharp]] worked very closely with Hughes in developing the Rock Bit. The success of this bit led to the founding of the [[Sharp-Hughes Tool Company]].  


In 1933 two Hughes engineers invented the tricone bit. This bit has three wheels and is still the dominant bit in the market today. The Hughes patent for the tricone bit lasted until 1951, after which time other companies started making similar bits. However, the Hughes’s market share was still 40% of the worlds drill bit market in 2000.
In 1933 two Hughes engineers invented the tricone bit. This bit has three wheels and is still the dominant bit in the market today. The Hughes patent for the tricone bit lasted until 1951, after which time other companies started making similar bits. However, the Hughes’s market share was still 40% of the worlds drill bit market in 2000.
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=== Steels ===
=== Steels ===
soft '''low carbon steel''' bits are used only in wood, as they do not hold an edge well, and require frequent sharpening. Working with [[hardwood]]s can cause a noticeable reduction in lifespan. They are, however, inexpensive.
soft '''low carbon steel''' bits are used only in wood, as they do not hold an edge well, and require frequent sharpening. Working with hardwoods can cause a noticeable reduction in lifespan. They are, however, inexpensive.


'''high Carbon steel''' bits are made from high [[carbon steel]] and are an improvement on plain steel due to the [[Heat treatment|hardening and tempering]] capabilities of the material. These bits can be used on wood or metal, however they have a low tolerance to excessive heat which causes them to lose their [[Tempering|temper]], resulting in a soft cutting edge.
'''high Carbon steel''' bits are made from high carbon steel and are an improvement on plain steel due to the [[Heat treatment|hardening and tempering]] capabilities of the material. These bits can be used on wood or metal, however they have a low tolerance to excessive heat which causes them to lose their temper, resulting in a soft cutting edge.


'''[[High speed steel]]''' (HSS) is a form of [[tool steel]] where the bits are much more resistant to the effect of heat. They can be used to drill in metal, hardwood, and most other materials at greater cutting speeds than carbon steel bits and have largely replaced them in commercial applications.
'''[[High speed steel]]''' (HSS) is a form of tool steel where the bits are much more resistant to the effect of heat. They can be used to drill in metal, hardwood, and most other materials at greater cutting speeds than carbon steel bits and have largely replaced them in commercial applications.


'''[[Cobalt]] steel''' alloys are variations on high speed steel which have more cobalt in them.  Their main advantage is that they hold their hardness at much higher temperatures, so they are used to drill [[stainless steel]] and other hard materials.  The main disadvantage of cobalt steels is that they are more brittle than standard HSS.
'''Cobalt steel''' alloys are variations on high speed steel which have more cobalt in them.  Their main advantage is that they hold their hardness at much higher temperatures, so they are used to drill stainless steel and other hard materials.  The main disadvantage of cobalt steels is that they are more brittle than standard HSS.


=== Exotics ===
=== Exotics ===
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