Spare Time Activities/A cowboy axe case
|Spare Time Activities:||Foreword||1||2||3||4||5||6||7||8||9||10||11||12||13||14||15||16||17||18||19||20||21||22||23||24||25|
A cowboy axe case
THE way a Scout treats his axe is a very clear indication to an old campaigner of the kind of chap he is. Only the “greenhorn” will leave his axe lying about on the ground; the old hand knows that an axe is no good unless it is sharp, so he treats it with the same care that the soldier bestows on his rifle, and always keeps it in a case when not in use. All kinds of axe cases are possible, and it doesn’t much matter from the point of view of utility which you have; but if you are making one, there’s no real reason why you shouldn’t have a shot at a really “posh” one with a touch of the “wild and woolly west” about it. I don’t want you to run away with the idea that cowboys really use cases like this for their axes – for as a matter of fact they don’t. I only call this a cowboy axe case because it is modelled on a cowboy revolver holster which I came across the other day. Start off by making the back, as shown by A. For this you need a piece of leather 9 in. long by 7 in. wide. The diagram shows you how to shape it. The holes are punched ¾ in. from the edge, each pair being 1 in. apart.
A – shows the shape of the back piece of leather. Eight holes are punched in it, which are joined by slits cut in the leather. B and C form the case proper. B is placed on C and stitched, leaving the top part of C quite free. Slip the axe into the case, then put in rivets to prevent the stitches being cut. A is sewn on to the back, and the case is slipped through the “straps” of leather in A. Finish by making a fastener to keep the case closed. Then cut the slits across as you see, thus connecting the holes together, and forming the retaining strips to keep the holster in position. A very effective way of ornamenting this part is to punch holes all round the edge about a ¼ in. apart, and then interlace a binding consisting of a flat leather bootlace over the edge all round. Now you make the case proper, consisting of two pieces of leather, B and C in the drawings. B is made 8 in, long, 6½ in. wide at the broad end, and 2½ in. at the small end. C is, as you see, longer in order to provide the flap. Make it 11 in. long, 6½ in. wide at the top, and 3 in. at the bottom. B and C are then stitched together up both sides in the usual way with strong waxed thread, and a couple of needles. You need not stitch these together at all unless you like – the plan I suggested in the last chapter for the knife sheath would do very well. Punch holes through both sections, and bind them together with a leather bootlace. It makes a very strong job of it, and certainly looks more picturesque than most stitching. Having secured the two together, slip in your axe, then put in a few copper rivets to keep it in place, and to prevent the stitches being cut. You should use a few more rivets than the artist has drawn in the picture. Then you sew the back piece, A, on to the case. You will at once see how this provides the means of attaching it to your belt, and lastly, arrange for a fastening of some sort on B and C to keep the flap closed. Probably a brass stud and buttonhole is the easiest method, but you could have some sort of carved wood or bone fastening if you like, or a hard leather button of your own manufacture.